Made here in Australia this multipurpose unit can be used to separate honey from cappings, clean wax and melt wax for candle making. 

Multipurpose Unit – Bee Keeping – Capping’s Reducer – Wax Cleaning  – Honey Warming & more

Capping’s reducing & Capping’s Honey Recovery – recommended for 1-5 plus Bee Hives

2 x Stainless Steel Product Outlet (Tap) & water jacket bridging pipes.

1 x Brass Water Jacket Drain Tap

These are made to order (allow 7 - 10 days) and shipped direct from the manufacturer to you if you select pickup in store we will apply the manufacturers freight after the order is placed.

Recommended for products that require melting temperatures up to 85C 

A Double Boiler will increase your production output significantly with less effort, less mess and great temperature control.

A double boiler is the single best investment you will make for your hobby or small business.

Dual outlet units make cleaning bees wax a breeze!

Reducing / Cleaning Straight Capping’s

Reducing and cleaning straight capping’s is essentially the same process as the cleaning wax guide below with one difference, clean water should not be added to the chamber as wax capping’s have enough honey to melt and separate between the bottom layer of honey and the top layer of clean beeswax.

The honey recovered from the capping’s is therefore just heated honey and not honey rich water and it has many uses, it is commonly used for sauces, cooking and making mead (fermentation).

Note: For pressed wax capping’s, please use the guide below.

Cleaning Wax – Dirty wax capping’s, old foundation and wax from previous cleans.

Add water first to the chamber, fill to just above the top tap outlet. Add wax capping’s, old foundation and wax from previous cleans to the chamber.

Set the thermostat temperature to between 65-75c for the water jacket. Do not exceed 80c as at these higher temperatures the wax will discolour.

To achieve best results, a slower melt time is preferred. Ideally run the unit at a lower temperature (65-70c for usually 8-10 hours for best results), this will allow the wax to just melt and gravity to separate the liquid layers at different densities. Water/Honey is heavier than wax, therefore wax will float to the top of the chamber. Any debris will tend to sit within the water or just below the wax line (between water and wax). Therefore DO NOT stir the contents after it has melted and separated.

Once everything has melted, separated and settled (Usually 8-10 hours for best results), before opening the taps, if there is any debris floating on top of the wax, carefully skim the debris off – taking care not to stir the contents of the chamber. Open the lowest chamber tap to drain off the honey rich water until you see the colour/viscosity change and wax starts to come out, close the bottom tap, the wax line should now be below the top chamber taps. Allow the contents that has just been drained too cool, any wax will solidify on top, this wax can be recovered and added to the next batch to be processed.

Note: Honey rich water is ideally used to make Mead!

Now move up to the top chamber tap, depending on the temperature that you have the unit set to, you may need to apply an electric hot air gun or hair drier to the outlet, this will allow any solid beeswax to melt within the tap. Use a small container to check if clean wax is coming out, if wax is still dirty allow to settle longer or drop the level further with bottom chamber tap.

Once wax is clean drain clean wax straight into a pouring jug or moulds until the clean wax is exhausted.

Repeat the process until all capping’s and old foundation have been used.

If there is a build-up of pollen or debris in the bottom of the chamber it is time to clean the unit out.

It is not recommended to clean brood comb in the unit as brood comb generally contains a lot of debris – specifically cacoons which can clog the tap.

Warming Honey

It is important to set the desired temperature and allow the unit to heat up to the set temperature you require before placing honey in the chamber and warming the honey. For larger models (25-35L) 10L and 20L buckets of candied honey can be gently lowered into the unit. Set the temperature to 60c and run for 24 hours. After which the honey will be completely liquefied within the bucket. Lower temperatures will take longer. Note: honey heated above 40c is not considered to be raw.

The Basics

1. Fill the water jacket with demineralised water – demineralised water is a low cost product that can be purchased at supermarkets and hardware stores for around $4 for 5L , once filled the water is left in the unit and topped up as required.
2. Plug into a power outlet.
3. Select desired temperature on the thermostat.
4. Heat unit up to temperature.
5. Add wax/product and heat product to required temperature.
6. Make Products.

Features

• Electronic Heat Control.
• Easy to follow instructions.
• Easy to maintain.
• Designed for use on a standard 10amp power point with safety switch.
• Fully serviceable.
• Specifications
  

• 7L internal product pot These change with unit selected
• 8L water jacket. These change with unit selected
• Unit overall dimensions: H42cm x W30cm.
• Internal product pot dimensions: H20cm x W22cm
• 2 x Stainless Steel product outlet (tap) with insulated handles.
• 1 x Brass water jacket drain tap.
• Product outlets (tap) heights 22cm & 26cm measured up from the unit’s base.
• Bottom Internal tap outlet sits approximately 1 cm from the pot base on the inside of the product pot.
• Top tap is the wax/product outlet, bottom tap is to empty the water jacket.
• Thermostat temperature range is 30-100℃
• Cold start to 100oC in approximately 30 minutes.
• Cold start to 70oC in approximately 20 minutes.
• Unit Power 240v/2300w – AS/NZS31122011 240V 10amp complies with Australian Electrical Standards.

units will have some marks from the manufacturing processes.

Double Boiling Method explained

An electric double boiler means the unit has a water jacket around the outside of the internal chamber, a thermostat to control heating to a set temperature and an electric heating element to heat the water in the water jacket, wax/product go into the internal chamber and the heated water in the jacket melts/heats/emulsifies/separates depending on the product being used from the base and the sides to the temperature set on the thermostat, being water jacketed the unit is limited to 100oC. The product outlet (tap) will not clog because it passes through the water jacket and is surrounded by hot water heating it.

Temperature is maintained by the thermostat to the set temperature continually allowing the user to spend more time perfecting the finished product.

Basically that’s how a double boiler works.